As my 40th birthday was approaching, I knew I wanted to celebrate it in an epic way! We had planned a winter getaway to Banff National Park filled with some of my favorite snow activities including snowshoe hikes, dog sledding, & soaking in natural mountain hot springs. However, I still felt the desire to experience something new & memorable for my milestone birthday. That was when I came across posts about ice climbing in Canmore with Yamnuska Mountain Adventures & was immediately intrigued. Seeing photos of ice climbers hanging on vertical ice with axes & huge crampons just looked so bad-ass!

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Ice climbing is quickly becoming a popular winter sport & the Canadian Rockies offer some of the best multi-pitch routes in the world. Just west of Calgary, in the little town of Canmore, there is a huge climbing community & great beginner crags. Easily accessible canyons & massive frozen waterfalls provide unlimited challenges for ice climbers of all skill levels.

Being completely new to the world of ice climbing, I did extensive research before finally booking with Yamnuska Mountain Adventures in Canmore. The company offers a variety of ice climbing tours from half-day sessions to multi-day backcountry adventures. More importantly, all Yamnuska instructors are certified by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides so I knew I would be in good hands. Even reviews have highlighted the guides are some of the best in professionalism & experience with beginners like me. Because Yamnuska is internationally recognized for their expertise in mountain safety, some of their guides have even worked on many feature films including The Bourne Legacy & Inception!

Our Ice Climbing Experience with Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Because our Banff itinerary was already jam-packed, we booked a half-day session of the Beginner Experiential Ice Climbing Program. While a full-day session includes 6-7 hours of ice climbing, a half-day provides 3 hours, which is the perfect amount of time to test out the exciting sport!

We arrived 20 minutes prior to our 12:00pm appointment & paired up with our guide, James. After a brief presentation on ice climbing, James conducted a short survey to gauge our level of outdoors exposure. While I was completely new ice climbing, I have hiked & rock scrambled in extreme winter conditions many times. I’ve even attempted indoor climbing but mostly basic bouldering not too far off the ground. Based on my experience, James felt confident I would do just fine starting off on the “upper falls” beginner route.

Heading to the Junkyards.

The Junkyards consists of four main sections for ice climbing: Main Flow, Scottish Gully, Left Scottish Gully, & Upper Falls. James guided us to Upper Falls that has an ice grade of WI-2 & WI-3, which involves low angle ice or short pitches up to 80 degrees. Ice climbing grades are based on a system that takes into account factors like steepness, quality of the ice, amount of protection, & how technical the movements are. You can learn more about ice grades here.

After gearing up with a pair of ice axes & heavy duty crampons, we headed out to Grassi Lakes, which is only a 10 minute drive from Canmore. There is a large parking lot next to the lake with two different routes. We followed James on to the less hilly road passing underneath power lines for about 20 minutes. Once we reached the lower section of the Junkyards, next to an active dam & power station, we transitioned on to the trail. Here, we navigated through the trees up an icy hillside & arrived at the first main staging area. After marveling at some pro climbers climbing effortlessly up the frozen waterfall, we continued on towards our destination.

The technical skills of ice climbing.

Once we arrived at the Upper Falls, James gave us an introduction to single pitch & top roping techniques, which involves an anchor at the top of a climb with a rope threaded through. The climber is belayed from the bottom by a partner, who manages the rope & applies necessary friction to prevent a ground fall. While I have no fear of heights, there was an initial sense of concern whether I would misstep or a carabiner would pop off! But James’ calm & reassuring demeanor put me at ease allowing me to focus on making it to the top.

I quickly learned to keep my hips close into the ice when standing on my crampons & to lower my heels for improved grip. By moving my feet one small step at a time, I was able to maintain better control. I also found that swinging my axe with my entire shoulder, elbow, & wrist in one vertical line helped with my aim. There is a lot more to learn if I were to advance my skills. But with these basic tips, I quickly became more confident on the ice.

Reaching the top of the ice!

After what seemed like an eternity, I finally reached the top rope & an overwhelming feeling of accomplishment came over me. With the breathtaking Ha Ling Peak in the backdrop & Canmore Valley below, I felt so weightless high in the sky! After a couple minutes soaking in the views, I slowly began rappelling my way down the ice & back to solid ground.

For our return trek to the parking lot, we followed the main Grassi Lakes trail which was far more scenic. While the entire path was iced over & required us to strap on our microspikes, the terrain was easy to navigate. In addition to ice climbers, the trail is frequently utilized by hikers & nature enthusiasts so remember to follow the seven Leave No Trace principles.

Plan your Ice Climbing Session with Yamnuska

Best time to go ice climbing.

Ice climbing season in Canmore runs from around November through April, depending on temperatures & elevation. Beginner courses that take place at lower elevation usually start in late November & stop at the end of March. Whereas, experienced higher elevation climbs can go as far into May depending on avalanche dangers.

How to book your session.

To book or inquire about the different guided ice climbs, you can call the office at:

• +1 (866) 678-4163 (Canada, US only) or
• +1 (403) 678-4164 (other countries)

Pricing varies depending on the type of session & number of climbers. To give you an idea for the half-day Beginner Experiential Ice Climbing session, 1 person costs $525 & 2 people costs $275 per person. Please check Yamnuska Mountain Adventures website for the most up-to-date information.

At registration, there is a deposit of 35% of the cost. Full payment is required eight weeks before the date of the booked session. If you cancel more than eight weeks in advance, there is a cancellation fee of $105. If you cancel between six to eight weeks prior, you will lose your deposit & if less than six weeks, you will lose all payments made.

As with any mountain activity, there are several risks involved. While Yamnuska strives to prevent accidents by identifying hazards & maintaining good communication, risks are still inevitable. Please review their safety & risk management approach here. Before your trip, you will required to sign a waiver.

In terms of insurance, there are two types that Yamnuska highly recommends you look into, emergency medical expenses & travel insurance. Before you travel, you should ensure your current health plan will cover you in case of unexpected illness or accident. While there is no charge for rescue within the national & provincial parks of Canada, there may be additional costs for emergency transportation & any medical services. As for travel insurance, there are a wide range of options to protect you from trip cancellations or interruptions that may arise due to business, family, flight delays, & other unplanned events.

Other logistics with Yamnuska Mountain Adventures.

We planned to meet our ice climbing guide at the Yamnuska office located at 200, 50 Lincoln Park, Canmore. The meeting time is set when you make your booking which is usually at 7:30am and/or 12:00pm (half-day session only).

Generally, the client provides transportation for the guide. However, for a surcharge, Yamnuska can provide transportation for pick-up. Just be sure to inquire with the office staff at the time of booking. While half-day ice climbing sessions typically take place at the nearby Grassi Lakes, other beginner locations can be at King Creek in Kananaskis, Grotto Falls in Canmore, or even Johnston Canyon, also known as one of the top winter hikes in Banff. Multi-pitch climbs can take place as far as Yoho, Jasper, & Kootenay National Parks.

Depending on the location, you will need to purchase the appropriate pass. If ice climbing will take place within Banff National Park, you can get your pass online or in-person at the park gates. If the session is held in the Kananaskis Country, conservation passes are available online.

What to Pack for Ice Climbing

Food & drinks are not provided in the session. Plan to pack some high energy snacks & hot water in an insulated thermos to keep your body sustained.

While all the technical gear is provided by Yamnuska Mountain Adventures, you will still need to prepare to tackle cold temperatures & possible winds. Remember, you are climbing large slabs of ice! As with any winter activity, wearing layers is essential as conditions can change at any moment’s notice. Choose wool & avoid cotton fabrics as they tend to absorb sweat & take a long time to dry, putting you at risk for hypothermia. Waterproof outerwear & pants are also a good idea. But consider how much mobility it gives since you will need full range of motion. Check out my top winter gear essentials for more tips!

If you have your own technical gear, you are free to bring them with you. Otherwise, Yamnuska can provide the following, free of charge:

• Mountaineering boots
• Crampons
• Climbing harness
• Climbing helmet
• Ice tools
• Backpack

Address for Yamnuska Mountain Adventures: 200 – 50 Lincoln Park, Canmore, Alberta, Canada T1W 3E9

Phone number: +1 (866) 678-4163 (Canada, US only) or +1 (403) 678-4164 (other countries)